Tehran

« Tehran is a very ambiguous and heavily underrated city. Typically, it serves as a transit base for further travels across Iran: Shiraz, Yazd, Isfahan – these are the standard routes for tourists. But it seems like there’s nothing to do in Tehran. However, this couldn’t be further from the truth. Iran is rightfully considered the cradle of civilization, and Tehran exemplifies this notion in various ways. The city boasts a remarkable number of beautiful museums that are definitely worth visiting, as they showcase exhibits that are quite hard to find in Europe, and the U.S. isn't exactly overflowing with them either. Architecturally speaking, finding similar counterparts is also quite difficult.

First and foremost, there’s the Golestan Palace. This monument of the Qajar era (the penultimate dynasty of the shahs) actually began construction a couple of centuries earlier. The palace is designed in an intriguing way, featuring tiles, carvings, grand terraces, impressive staircases, and much more. Inside, there are several separate museums, but it’s the interiors that are truly mesmerizing. You won’t find such beauty under our skies. The ideas about what constitutes luxurious beauty differ significantly between us and the East. Persian painting also deserves attention. It's fascinating to observe and compare how different countries have evolved from awkward portraiture to mastering the art of brushwork. :) »

« Tehran... it was very interesting to return here after 8 years, to take a closer look at the capital, to discover so many new things, and to rejoice at the changes. Well, here goes :) I was here during the presidency of Mahmoud Ahmadinejad - a fanatical president, genuinely disliked by the people. He was so unpopular that when the elections took place in 2013 and he ran for a second term, the country was engulfed by a wave of protests. Ahmadinejad did not make it back into office, and the political course of the country slowly but surely began to shift towards a more reasonable direction. This was immediately noticeable with the higher percentage of women dressed in ordinary colorful clothing. Yes, of course, they all still wear hijabs. Yes, there is still moral police stationed near the metro stations, ready to catch those daring enough to slide their scarves too low on their neck (and I even saw the police and received a warning, but I was saved by my eye color). »

« I really regret that I couldn't properly explore Tehran. In the photo is the Golestan Palace, which was sneakily closed when we arrived. But if you Google it, the inside is just unreal! Tehran itself left a very strange impression: it seems way more crowded than other cities I’ve been to, with massive traffic jams, throngs in the metro, and crowds on the streets! It feels like a completely different country compared to Shiraz, Yazd, Isfahan... Honestly, I don't know if I'll ever get the chance to return to Iran. It would be great, but life is just too unpredictable. »