« Although the Boudhanath Stupa is under reconstruction, the magical atmosphere of this place is still very much alive. Maybe in ten years, I will be circling around with prayer beads in hand, bald, with a smartphone in my pocket and dressed in a burgundy robe.
For now, we are heading to Chitwan National Park, on the lookout for rhinos and man-eating tigers. Along the road, there are long lines for gasoline with hundreds of cars waiting. You have to stand in line for at least nine hours, sometimes even a few days. Gasoline used to cost $1 per liter, but now on the black market, it's around $5, and it's really hard to find. A gas cylinder used to be $20, but now it has skyrocketed to $70. All of this is a result of an unofficial fuel blockade from India, which is trying to pressure the Nepali government into making certain decisions in favor of the Madhesi ethnic group (essentially, Indians with Nepali passports). And the Nepalis fear that India might take over the Terai region, populated by the Madhesi. »
Ideally, it should be there to help us, but in reality, it just ends up taking advantage. There’s an understanding among many service providers. Take laundry, for example. The price is set uniformly, no matter where you go. It's simply not up for discussion. On top of that, they’re all guilty of overcharging. They even have an interesting trick: you bring in 2.1 kg, and they charge you for 2.5.
When you ask for clarification, they confidently assert that you should try going somewhere else. Of course, you'll find the same story repeated elsewhere. Frustrated, we pulled out our scale and weighed exactly 2 kilos. We handed it over. Ah, Kathmandu! »
They are the hallmark of the place and appear in pictures just as often as the main attractions. So they think they have the right to ask for $5 for a photo with them/next to them/within three meters of them/in general, they’ve seen you with a camera) although in the end, they’re fine with 'here, take 20 rupees and get lost')
A huge request, please don't spoil them!)" »
1. One day walking down and a flight for $165.
2. Helicopter ride costing around $3000-3500.
3. About 7-9 days trekking through the mountains, plus an additional day by bus.
The atmosphere here is incredible. There's a hospital, a monastery, and a military unit. Every Saturday, Sherpas from all over the region come to Namche to buy goods from the mainland. »
We are going to the point where the ascent actually begins. Our highest elevation will be 5,500 meters: the summit of Kala Patthar. From there, you get an incredible view of Everest and the surrounding peaks. »
All the local buses and trucks in Nepal are just as colorful. It's particularly amusing when a bus has no windshield, and instead, it’s generously wrapped in plastic. A little window has been cut out for the driver amidst this splendor. It all looks pretty rugged.
Bus prices are quite affordable for the locals. On the Kathmandu-Pokhara route, a local bus costs $5, a gloomy tourist bus is around $6-7, and a "luxury" option runs about $25.
We always rent a Toyota Hiace minibus for 15 people. It’s the most comfortable form of collective transportation in Nepal.
The distance between Kathmandu and Pokhara is only 200 km, but the journey takes about 6-7 hours. If you’re really lucky, it can be done in 5 (on local shuttles).
Alternatively, you can take a frightening 15-seat plane for $100. Guaranteed to leave an impression! »
For now, we are heading to Chitwan National Park, on the lookout for rhinos and man-eating tigers. Along the road, there are long lines for gasoline with hundreds of cars waiting. You have to stand in line for at least nine hours, sometimes even a few days. Gasoline used to cost $1 per liter, but now on the black market, it's around $5, and it's really hard to find. A gas cylinder used to be $20, but now it has skyrocketed to $70. All of this is a result of an unofficial fuel blockade from India, which is trying to pressure the Nepali government into making certain decisions in favor of the Madhesi ethnic group (essentially, Indians with Nepali passports). And the Nepalis fear that India might take over the Terai region, populated by the Madhesi. »
There’s also a shortage of gas, so some restaurants are only able to serve salads—no gas cylinders available. »
Sadhus are ascetic wanderers who have rejected worldly pleasures in pursuit of spiritual growth and enlightenment. They possess no possessions or money, traveling on foot or in shared Indian train compartments (meaning for free). Hindus believe that supporting sadhus improves one's karma, so food is not an issue for them; they need little else. Additionally, a true sadhu cannot save collected food for the next day—doing so would mean it becomes their property.
However, the gentlemen in the photo go to work every day at the Pashupatinath Temple. Throughout the four years I've visited Nepal, I've seen the same faces. A photo with the dressed-up sadhus costs $1, and they don't allow for free pictures. »
And by the way, have you heard about scams from well-known flight search engines?! For instance, if you're using an iPhone or a MacBook, prices can go up. Your geo-location also affects the price. You search for a destination, go to another site, come back, and the price has increased with only a couple of tickets left. There are many other tricks... To avoid this, use incognito mode and other tools! »